Friday 6 May 2016

Confluence: La Gartempe et La Creuse rivers: two rivers and their hamlet

I like being at these kind of junctions!

On Saturday my friend accompanied me on this walk I had been intending for some time.  The track wasn't always where I wanted one,  and in one place woodland had been ploughed by the farmer!
The confluence was difficult to see through the river bank shrubs and trees. The soil was alluvial. Lovely word...the land probably isn't geographically speaking such,  but... I like the sound of words...

Uxorious is another word I like the sound of ... and the meaning!

The ground was strewn with interesting stones;  a large 'potato stone' I carried home!  Some of the rounded stones were far too huge to move but a river could dislodge and move them over the years!

We came across a millenium garden out in the middle of nowhere.  Now that isn't true. The somewhere was Confluent - an agricultural hameau and when I saw it a few years ago, on a Patrimoine day,  it seemed untouched.
BUT NOW, if you look on Google map you can see where builders and farmers have carved out the soil to renovate a house, expanding land like a gravel pit but it isn't one.   AND also, several buildings have been re-roofed with red brick colour metal.  OH DEAR! What of conservation? 

We went because I wished my friend to see the wind powered turbine invented, constructed by Ernest BollĂ©e and one of his sons Auguste, who, I think also have something to do with the invention of bicycles and I was led to believe that the auto-moto-velo museum at Chatellerault has information about them.   I have a leaflet somewhere!

PHOTOWALK
The Millenium Garden is rather nice and I can imagine sitting on one of the available benches in the sunshine of peaceful solitude reading a book.... 


 Walking at the edge of planted crops to reach the river...


 Along a pea field the tracks of deer or small chevreuil?
 Oh...how did the crow get into the cage... we watched and thought... then saw a dead one in a second cage. Were they bait?  Or had they entered the cage set to catch partridges?  We each wanted to release it but cautious?  Then he opened a door whilst crow or rook sat still until his freedom fighter had returned to a distance.   The black bird cried 'phwew' as he got free!  Hop Hop ... something wrong with a wing or hungry bird needs to gather strength.  We continued looking back seeing him still on the ground.. But then, when we got to the fox or badger holes we saw a rook or crow soaring as if to say 'Thank you".

On the way back two man made lakes seemed much bigger than when I was last there. WE came across a dolmen which was once considered the best in the region but last century it was destroyed. 
PEOPLE!!!
The stones around once marked the limit of the tumulus ... it was once a burial hill...




 As we came to the road it all looked so different.  But there was the wind turbine in the distance.
 And now the uniform holes for plastic doors and windows... and the razing of the countryside...
 Old French stone house

 How to create a wall in a barn...
 Gates of importance...

 all at the crossroads                           at                                                    on the site of



 
 red metal roofs!
 beautiful old shutters and their nailed crossbars...
 how many people ever stayed here?
 ans the gate is secreted from view
 Times of old...








Thursday 5 May 2016

Yummy fish dish

Despite the diagnosed and continuing diverticulitis which I have had for maybe 40 years or so...I needed to eat something like this!

In a large frying pan with lid heat 2 tablespoons olive oil
Add one or two crushed / chopped garlic cloves and a teaspoon of Aleppo pepper (chilli flakes). Cook, stirring often, until fragrant for about three minutes or less.
Add smashed canned whole peeled tomatoes or chopped fresh ones with tomato puree, a splosh of white wine, bay leaves, a pinch of saffron previously soaked in boiled water.
Bring to boil and reduce heat.
Simmer for about 5–7 minutes.
Stir to blend during this time to prevent stickiness.
Season with salt and pepper.
Add two or four skinned cod fillets or steaks on top ... depends how much sauce you have made.. Cover with lid and steam for another 5 -7 minutes... basting fish as you go! 
Use fish slice to serve sieved tomatoes onto centre of plate, then cod, then sauce, then sprinkle with rocket, served with one or two tiny new potatoes cooked in the microwave and a few broccoli trees.
DIVINE!  but I needed to have reduced my sauce more!







Wednesday 4 May 2016

Chateauroux: 3 of 3

He got onto the 'ter' bus but the driver would not accept the smartphone payment/ ticket which was part of the onward journey of bus and train to Bourges, then Nevers, so had to pay again.
I am glad I waited because I declined to leave him to wait alone.  Fortunately, I was there to establish that the driver said he has to ask SNCF for a remboursement!
I wasn't quick enough yesterday with my thinking when about 6 people were waiting behind us to board the bus, that if he had to ask for a reimbursement,  then that clearly he meant he HAD paid!!!!!!
So why did the 'sncf / ter bus / coach ask him to buy another / a new ticket!

I know how long it took him to find the budget transport and indeed it was my decision to take him to Chateauroux  double the distnace and time of what I would have had to do if he'd gone to St Savin... but where was the bus stop?  ... 'twas NOT marked on Google maps because it is named after a hotel that doesn't exist anymore... DER!!!!  We had to ask the tourist office to find out where it was and it was still unclear! It seemed safer to go to Chateauroux!

I have since learned that the train would not accept the ticket and again a second ticket had to be bought.

Moral: don't book a ticket ahead of time!  YOU might not even get there in time! 

Why can't these companies see how hard it is for the budget traveller who does not have a vehicle and who is a traveller!
It must be so frustrating and is one of the things that puts me off traveling without a vehicle.
I can see the advantages of bus travel because it is cheap... and I have travelled National Express, but one needs TIME to do it and assurance of cheap or free accommodation at the end of the journey or a lift! 

On my way home I stopped at La Maison du Parc in La Brenne for a lime ice-cream and wandered to the pond where frogs were beginning to leave their hibernation mud to practise their croaking skills!

HOME to a banana sandwich with new bread I'd bought containing wheat (I think I should avoid it!)
but stuffed with sultanas, pistachios and hazelnuts... it was a meal in itself with a glass of red whilst my cousin phoned and I was told about the ill health of an ageing family! I fell into bed to read.
Almost 3e half a kg but worth it!

Tuesday 3 May 2016

Chateauroux: 2 of 3

After lunch we did a recommended route to look at 19th buildings.
This one needs a good clean and care by the Notaires who work there or by the Region as it is so beautiful. Needs a bit of TLC to honour it!  However, walk to the back and it is so ugly!  Note the architect and sculptor plus the decorative panel camouflaging the hole to the basement.



sunfllowers?

Then we lurch from one epoch to another as across the road is a 'lean-towards-the-road' structure.. part of the cinema, library, parking and who knows what else complex
Also opposite is this:
and this...
and this...

Having walked through all that... there was an impressive 20th century frontage incorporating the individual elements but walking along I was not in a position to capture the curving, glass frontispiece, which I did not like!  We came to the 'Chapel of the Redemptorists' .. disused but at one time an Unemployment office... three steel chimneys were acting as an aeolian pipe, humming away! I wonder if the architect who created the heating system was aware that this would happen?
This building was not mentioned on the leaflet of the route.  Most of the coloured decorative work had fallen off.
Then another lovely doorway!  Again not mentioned on the inadequate leaflet.
Look at the former wealth of the Post Office building!  But later, I didn't think to take a pic of the now disused sorting office by the railway and bus station.


This building was a former fencing house!  I rather like the sculptures. BUT we only knew what it was from the promenade leaflet.  No plaque to celebrate its heritage or to explain history and art to passers-by.  AND it is being used by wealthy notaires, lawyers or architects!


HOWEVER marvel at these:
and look at this link about the construction of GUITARDES:
http://www.historicalcarpentry.com/guitarde---beautiful-french-dormers.html
where it describes these buildings.
This one is beautiful:

but just along the road was a carousel / manège with windows!!!!! Never seen one like that before! It seemed a pity to have that at the end of a clean, attractive modern "residential public courtyard".  Bit like the awful chichi wagon at la Place near the eating establishments. I tripped over his cable.. no health and safety concerns at all!
More guitardes, french dormer windows showing the skills of carpentry trade.
they must have had a head for height!...this one on the tipple.. whoops ... topple!
In between those buildings I found some other interesting, more elegant dormers... more my style!
More guitardes on the house you could buy!

I like the star  .. I could have had one or two of those on my lucarnes instead of my little birds!
and a balcony would be a treat!
Now that I have used three hours of my time in creating these two posts and the next, giving my body time to recover from the aches and pains of driving, walking and several weeks of work PLUS medical intervention,  I ought to move about, get my mind working on what needs to be achieved in the next couple of weeks.

It is cold again after a few days of warmer daytime weather.
In the afternoon it was hot enough to wear shorts and tee shirt whilst I dug the green manure into the soil,planted potatoes, carrot seeds, Italian chicory, radish and peas.
Seeds are various stages of age and so they may or may not grow!

Monday 2 May 2016

Chateauroux: 1 of 3

Driving across meadows, fields and ponds of La Brenne in earlyish morning bright sunlight, finding one open café bar for breakfast: a hot chocolate with an apricot croissant from Saturday's supermarket shopping expedition was a small adventure.

We kept to the road and arrived for a second time in Chateauroux.

With about ten years in between I am still unimpressed, although it seems less dark, more spacious.
I suspect I have missed much on this whirlwind walk. I realise I didn't come across the Museum nor did I get to the botanical park that I believe is somewhere there.
I try to take in the historical information on the various burgundy coloured notice boards but somehow I feel it is only a small nod to the number of famous people and historical events that occurred here.. Somehow I would like the town to make more of itself.

YET... Witness a town hanging onto a few medieval buildings, where then, once tanners, carders, weavers and drapers lived and worked in great numbers, where today, number 51 is unmarked on the street that it is in,  and marked up the hill in the side road. Its  proclaimed mullion windows, mentioned on the visitors  have been ripped out in favour of modern secondary glazing.
HOW CAN THAT HAVE BEEN ALLOWED? ... and when did that happen?  Such a shame!

However, the lavoir, below the huge convent building high on the cliff edge, where on the outside you could see the barred windows of their cells, was beautifully reconstructed.   Barrels were placed to help people stand whilst they washed the linen. I couldn't see how that would have worked!
Postscript: Perhaps the floor was lower earthdirt in medieval and after times, before the team of volunteers etc "renovated" this architectural treasure .... and so the women would have STOOD and their elbows would be at barrel height and so SO SO... they would have STOOD to wash their linen-oh! 
Rant:
Why can't architects leave things alone or put architecture back to how it WAS even using modern equivalents? 
I was required to have my roof repair / replacement overseen by the Architecte de Batiments de France yet in the town nearer the eye of  the church  houses have been allowed to have modern roller blinds and windows that do not conform to shape and size... VELUX I can cope with... double glazing too but it has to be in keeping.  
The problem is there does not seem to be control over STYLE... even if one needs certain planning permissions! 


And what kind of oil was milled here?



 Drainage work.... and maybe afterwards they will cobble the ground anew which seems to have been done very nicely in some areas of the town.
St Martin's Gate .. once a prison .. is a remainder and reminder of ancient ramparts from the 12th to 15th centuries on which the Chateau Raoul was built... giving the name of the town.
This next, was near the pavement to one side of someone's door...something to do with an average level??? Water? not sure!
 A bit of architectural fun!
The old "elegant" Mairie/Town Hall faces the modernistic "ugly" Market Place.  As far as I can understand a lot of the town was "modernised" since the mid 1970's... not the best architectural period!

There are replicas of Gallo Romain sculptures on the side of the old Le Mairie, now being used as a Music School.  We could a hear a xylophone being practised.


Although I sat opposite the new Mairie eating spinach and salmon quiche with Earl Grey tea for lunch, I didn't take a photo. 

 

Sunday 1 May 2016

Owning property is never labour free

MAY 1st... Labour Day!
Muguet has not flouished in the last year of dormancy; it has mostly died when it had been good for several years. There is just a little of the Lily of the Valley surviving and one flower stem.

A few days ago we went to the LOFT cinema in Chatellerault to see the Australian film of the memoirs "TRACKS"... after the novel of the memoirs of the Camel Lady who crossed the desert in 1975.

I really enjoyed it.. One needs the BIG screen.  However, i thought the actress never looked sufficiently dishevelled!   Brave woman in reality!   Inspiring and motivating . No, I could not do that!

I had been bored with blogging but feel an urge to write and publish once again!
I also feel a need to get 'out and about in real life', on real adventures, however small, like that of yesterday, but it helps to have company some of the time!