To the Dorset Sea

We drove in a very nice 'my colour electric blue' Lotus Elan (1991 I think!.. well it was J reg) without great suspension, but suspended I was.  It could do a ton whilst I kept extremely relaxed with regular breathing, heart not quite in my mouth!  I even had a test drive! Safe! Told it was 'school rules' and if I crashed it, I would have to pay. Fair do's. 

After a walk through sheep downs showing the vestiges of Roman vineyards (!!! yes, in England!!!)  we came upon Dancing Ledge.  The historical and geographical information on my return with the assistance of 'the fount of all knowledge' is fascinating!In the old quarry, evidently one of the Dr Who films was taken.  The notice on other grilled and barred entrances said that Greater Horseshoe Bats were in the caves. It was a fascinating place to be with what appeared to be its own micro-climate. I would love to return and do the coastal walk! Such a beautiful experience assisted by a half pint and a Pinot Noir in an English inn!

Captured with my zoom...Maybe a Meadow Pipit?

Dancing Ledge, Dorset

On my way home

...being extremely tired after a night on a floor on a six hour ferry I needed to stretch my legs. It was eight in the morning when I deviated to a town called Falaise, which was just waking up.  On the ferry I had read that William the Conqueror had been born here, so I set off with my camera to the castle on a crisp and sunny morning.
A falaise is a steep rocky escarpment caused by erosion. With no time available I didn't view the chateau on the falaise at FALAISE from different angles.
In 2011, it was the 1100th anniversary of the town celebrating the birth and history of Guillaume le Conquerant...it is worth going to that link to remind us of a slightly different version of history than that which for example I was taught at school! It would be exciting to be at the planned events.

I saw the unfurled Bayeux Tapestry about 15 years ago.. stunning... I was in awe... at that time there were few people and so one could walk back and forth checking the images. Probably in my attic are photos and prints!!!
The Chateau Falaise is evidently similarly built to that of Corfe Castle, which I drove past on my recent travels and would dearly have loved to stop and be a tourist but we were on a see-the-sea mission! Shades of Chateau Angles sur L'Anglin.

It is also similar to the well-preserved Norwich Castle, which I know well, as my daughter lives in the city and it was my nearest city when I was occupationally resident in UK - an ancestral home... um... not the castle but an East Anglian seaside town!

The Witches' Rock - Le Roc-Aux-Sorciers

Shame on me!
I hadn't been to The Centre of Interpretation of The Witches' Rock in my beautiful village of Angles-sur-l'Anglin since 2008!  Recently updated, it is more informative. It interprets and attempts to replicate in techno media, with video historical re-enactment, life as it was 15,000 and 14,000 years ago when Magdalenian peoples inhabited a rock shelter at the water's edge, about 1.5km out of the village, near a small hamlet, Douce.  When the rock shelter was discovered it was given the name, Le Roc-Aux-Sorciers, which is also the name of the rock on the opposite bank.  In the 1990's the public was prevented from entering the site and the owner willed that a copy of the sculptures should be made to the public.
The frieze, is about twenty metres in length and is an impressively monumental work of art.  The Prehistoric relief wall carvings dating from 15,000 years ago are the most important carvings of their type in Europe. They were discovered in 1950.  Subsequently, the site was purchased in order to conserve it. 
The interpretation centre which cost 2 million euros, named Le Roc-Aux-Sorciers is a modernistic, dull-looking angular building overlooking the River Anglin.  The description is my own!! I should try to appreciate why the architects designed such a structure!  It has weathered in six years but somehow needs a touch of brightness; something to say "COME and LOOK at HERITAGE!"  Maybe a flag with the symbol of the goat/lizard upon it? I like the new rusty symbol fixed to stone walls here and there in the village... make sure you don't catch your clothing or eyes on them!

The most wondrous thing is,  not 'the going back in time display', which to my mind is difficult to absorb, but a dark cubic entrance, where one edges forwards little by little in fascination, fear, fumbling with hands, clutching at the body of one's friend or friends, as in a cave without light, eyes become accustomed, see that there are places to sit, to view a landscape of light, fire, prehistoric people and animals whilst modern French language explains it all.

Computer and laser copy technology recreate everything at full size, returning the 21st century peoples to the end of the ice age, into the caves and rock shelters along with our ancestors.
Pretty dynamic it is!
Yes. I shall go again soon.
It is an EXPERIENCE not to be missed.
There are lessons in History, Geography, Science, Archaelogy and Media presentation that should not be missed. Not to mention French language to understand and mathematics counting past years to calculate,

The name 'Sorcerers' Rock' or 'Witches' Rock' applies to the original site which faces south and is opposite a huge outcrop on the opposite side of the river which has ritual and fertility stories dating back to pagan times connected with it. The Roc-aux-Sorciers was classed as a Monument Historique on 18 January 1955. It is an Upper Paleolithic rock shelter site dating to the mid-Magdalenian cultural stage, ca 14000.  It has two geologically distinct sections; below is the Abri Bourdois, a classic rock-shelter site beneath a slight overhang, and above is the Cave Taillebourg, a deeper vestibule. The two parts are separated by a zone that has not yet been excavated. Evidently, it is good archaeological practice to not excavate all but to leave some for future generations who will have better technology and knowledge.
In 1927, Lucien Rousseau discovered the Paleolithic habitation and identified it as mid-Magdalenian. He began excavations in the Cave Taillebourg, named after the property owner, and recovered an engraved stone in which Henri Breuil detected a representation of a mammoth.  Suzanne de Saint-Mathurin became aware of Rousseau's article and decided to explore, hoping to find some incised plaquettes like those from the cave at Lussac-les-Châteaux, also in Vienne. Assisted by her friend Dorothy Garrod, she worked between 1947 and 1957 and others continued until 1964.

The exploration teams discovered carved stone fragments which had fallen from the roof of the Cave Taillebourg.  Only a carved, painted figure of a bison had remained in place. The sculpted frieze was discovered about 1950 with incised figures, sometimes painted, of bison, horses, wild goats, sabre toothed tiger, torsos of man and woman sometimes called Venus figurines.  The frieze of the Abri Bourdois shows the technical skills of Magdalenian sculptors. The anatomical details giving an impression of power is displayed when in the play of firelight. Both animal and human figures show realism, a rarity in paleolithic art.  This reinforces the unique value of the site. The excavations revealed evidence of human occupation, of a culture who used jewelry, lamps, and tools in flint, bone, horn and ivory.
Here, at the footsteps of where I live and where those Magdalenian peoples lived is an incredible discovery, a joyful coup for the village, which repeatedly, I experience to compensate for opportunities I lost and never made!

Roman Church 10th Century

Mooching around the back of buildings between the river, the market and the new tourist office area,  I discovered the oldest church in Chatellerault, which I never knew existed. 
I have been visiting this town for 9 years!  How dumb could I be!
The streets and buildings around it have recently received renovation. so maybe as other buildings around it have been destroyed as part of 'new development' perhaps it was that 'we couldn't see the wood for the trees'.

It was the first church founded by the Viscount of Chatellerault in 10th century. It was one of five parish churches of the former establishment. After the Siege of Poitiers in July 1569 when the Huguenots rioted, it was restored. After The Revolution it was converted into habitation. Today the secondary chapels and columns are conserved. It is a National Monument of France.

Extraordinary!

L'Ancien Theatre in Chatellerault: 6

The Peristyle is used as a foyer.

1967 the theatre was deemed to be outside of the cultural life of Chatellerault and any project to renew it was too onerous. 
1973 there was an order for it to be closed because of the danger of fire.
1977 The Maire confirmed it was going to be destroyed. An association to save it was led by Michel Bidron. it has been a long process but I am so very glad the theatre has been conserved and is classed as a Historic Monument de France. Thank you to all those who had faith!
And now....please go to the theatre as part of the audience or have a guided tour.  Treat yourself!
There is a depth to this theatre that I have not been able to relate or reproduce in these postings nor yet uncovered. Over to you!

PS If I am able to read / translate / discover more important facts I will update my blog with new postings! 

L'Ancien Theatre in Chatellerault: 5

These photos are of a maquette on display.

And some other lovely decorative features:

L'Ancien Theatre in Chatellerault: 4

The sets, curtain and allegorical ceiling paintings are the artistry of Emile Vernon, from the École des Beaux-Arts, Tours, France. This is a reproduction of the main curtain which has two oculi to espy if the audience are ready for the show!  It depicts the Henri IV bridge over La Vienne river between Chatellerault and Chateauneuf.  I wonder if all the original has been kept and if so, where? I hope examples of the other artefacts are in storage somewhere.

 This blog shows his paintings in their original state - untouched! Thank you to the blogger!

SPRINGTIME COMETH
Evidently the cranes went over yesterday but I didn't see them! 

L'Ancien Theatre in Chatellerault: 3

I am very fond of this theatre and have been a member of "Les Amis" for several years, offering my humble support for the rescue of this unique building.  It was dilapidated and at its worst when a friend and I had a guided tour. Earlier this week I was rapturous and so happy to see it looking exquisitely beautiful when I attended the AGM.

I don't think my level of French would withstand a performance but maybe if I can find an event that hasn't yet sold out I would love to dress in my finery and be chaperoned as part of the audience, as part of the theatre that the actors may or may not see when all the lights are shining upon THEM.  I would be in the dark in more ways than one!   I would be with the Godesses of Thalia and Mesopmene in Paradise!

You could read: 
http://www.ville-chatellerault.fr/grands-projets/ancien-theatre

L'Ancien Theatre in Chatellerault: 2

 These are images from the electronic presentation available to view in the 'peristyle' / foyer.

1495 Les Minimes positioned outside of the walled moated town of Chatellerault.

The Moat has long since been filled, but how or why or when I do not know!  In this 1495 engraving one can see the churches of St Jacques, the 10th century Roman church and St Jean the Evangelist. I find it Fascinating, the more I look. And when was the wall taken down?

The cheapest seats in the Gods are called Paradise.

The chapel window still exists but is bricked up.

Des baies géminées  can be seen here.

By now those who buy the cheapest seats go to the chicken run! 

Le gril is machinery which controls the raising and lowering of the sets 'de scene'.  I think it is fantastic that these were preserved and now restored.

2014

If you wish to hear in French then go to here

L'Ancien Theatre in Chatellerault: 1

  In future it will be called Theatre Blossac.
L'Ancien refers to the 'former' not 'ancient' theatre.
Now, re-instated it is situated on the Boulevard Blossac.

HOWEVER, it has been restored exquisitely, ambitiously and impeccably. 

It is a working theatre in the Italianate Style.
I recommend everyone to have a guided tour. 

HISTORY:
1495: A theatre was built in the chapel of the Convent of Minimes.
1791: It was purchased by the town council.
1804:  A wooden tower was destroyed.  I don't know which tower is referred to. The wood was recycled to build a simple amphitheatre with apx 400 seats to host meetings and Republican ceremonies.  It was organised by a charitable company whose aims were to "bring relief to poverty, promote the arts and provide residents with pleasant relaxation which would improve their morals." 
(Maybe the translation means morale!) 
1814: It was decided that a new theatre was required for the town.
1839 to 1844: A small neo-classical Italian theatre was built by Michel Delage, who was a mason in Châtellerault, according to designs by Louis Renaudet.
1860: It became a Municipal Theatre. I think it was called La Redoute because until recently that was the name of the hall in front of the concealed theatre and the hall upstairs.  "The cultural space now includes a theatre (in the nave of the old church), a peristyle attached to the front of the church and, upstairs, a fireplace and the room dedicated to La Redoute meetings concerts and balls." 
1899: The theatre was extended to seat apx 600 in the audience. The simple brown, blue and yellow decor was transformed with rich paintings, sculptures and embellishments of red and gold.  The sets, the curtain and the allegorical ceiling paintings and murals are the work of Emile Vernon, of the Ecole des Beaux-Arts de Tours.  
Émile Vernon, was born in 1872 and died in 1919. He was a student at the School of Fine Arts in Tours, France and received the premier prize for drawing in 1888.  He was taught and influenced by William Bouguereau and Auguste Truphème at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris.   In 1898, he participated in the Exhibition of Fine Arts and Decorative Arts in Tours.  He exhibited regularly until 1913, with portraits, landscapes and floral paintings.  He excelled in watercolour paintings of women and children in bright colours and bucolic scenery, and was well known for the portrait of Mrs.Vernon, Under the Lamp.
1945 to 1958:  although there were performances the building began to degrade becoming dangerous.
2012: Restoration began to replicate the Italianate theatre of 1899.  The foundations, roof, walls, stairway, plumbing, electricity, et cetera have all been updated according to current building regulations. Paintings and decorations have been restored: curtains, dressing rooms, benches, seats and theatre boxes, chairs in the balconies, the proscenium, cornices, friezes and IN FACT everything has all been replaced and or restored.  The machinery which operates the theatrical screens and sets has also been upgraded.In addition, a lift has been installed.  
Two stone muses, Thalia and Melopmene were returned to the facade of the theatre.
In Grecian Mythology the Muses were the inspirational goddesses of knowledge, of the arts, of music, song and dance and all were the source of inspiration to poets in the court of Zeus.  In very ancient times there were three Muses, but later there were nine.  
Each inspirational Muse received a name and spheres of responsibility or attributes:-

Calliope (epic poetry) 
Clio (history)
Erato (love and erotic poetry)
Euterpe (lyric poetry)
Melopmene (tragedy)
Thalia (comedy)
Polyhymnia (religious hymns)
Terpsichore (choral song and dance)
Urania (astronomy)

2013: The theatre was re-opened.  It has cost 5.85 million euros to restore.  The Heritage Foundation supported the restoration of the theatre. The work was overseen by Millet Key, an International firm associated with Arnaud de Saint-Jouan, Chief Architect of Historic Monuments. 25 companies were involved.

See next posting for more photographs.