Chapter Two of A Cornish Adventure

We took a train to Penzance and warmed ourselves with an amazing hot chocolate. I do wish I'd chosen a Danish pastry!

Onwards!   Our cycles skirted the Pz fishing depots as we headed towards Mousehole.  (The only family holiday I ever remember brought us here and it doesn't appear to have changed!)  A three-roomed shop with apartment for sale was 550k.  I asked the price!  A little shop like that would do me to a tee!

We stopped at Newlyn Art Gallery with colourful, contemporary art that made us talk about what we saw!  I loved that!  Overjoyed, I delighted in "fuschias flowering in the hedges, falling to the floor", as worthy as any art.

Driving east, we stopped at Dartington but it was raining. I didn't have my camera under the umbrella. We came to Totnes, Devon whereupon a bus and a river ferry transported us to Dartmouth. 
Here we debarked, only to hear my name being called!  Who?!! Someone from the commune I used to live in!! I used to work with her as a volunteer with children's activities and adult TEFL!  Four years ago I nearly bought part of her property! Small world! She was so friendly, absolutely charming as French Parisians are, and as surprised as I was! Spooked! I needed a strong coffee and glass of wine or brandy but not hot the chocolate substitute which was pathetic!

I loved the colours and styles of houses, the interesting boutique/antique shops, the defence constructions and the chateau at the mouth of the River Dart, the working boats, the general ambiance including tropical plants, the stately demeanour of the buildings steeped in a richly important heritage of nautical history, sailing, warfare, where 'The Mayflower' once moored when The Pilgrim Fathers sailed from Southampton to America.  There was never enough time to explore further as our bus for the return journey was waiting.  Steam train and return river ferry timetables did not coincide with our needs.  Fish and chips were delicious, eaten whilst seagulls glared at us !

Totnes was quirky! Now we travelled north-east to Burnham-on-Sea, Somerset, to settle in the sunshine and walk along the sands before the overnight stopover for a very early flight to France.

Three counties in ten days.
It was an invitation, an opportunity, an educational experience for inspiration.
It was fun and an adventure.
It was enjoyment and laughter.
It was for that moment in time with a valued friend.
It strengthened the knowledge that I can't yet afford to live near the coast unless someone lets me have a small artist's studio and then I think I would! But then I really would have to learn to paint!
Au revoir Cornwall!

Chapter One of A Cornish Adventure

Cornwall beckoned and it was surprisingly warm. I LOVED IT!!!
Once the canopy of cloud was higher than the plane I was amazed to see how emerald green were verdant fields of The West Country and in a different geographical formation than The Fair Fields of France. Travelling to Taunton took no time where we met my cousin. Like me she has the zany gene. We laughed hysterically as she drove to three watering holes determined to have a coffee treat away from home but no pubs were open before noon.  Success at midday! Didn't they know people were queuing to get in! Back to base for a ginger, lemon and echinacea concoction for an invalid before having lunch and an evening meal at a pub quiz night. Sadly, we didn't have quiz knowledge!

Westwards! We walked a 6 and a half mile section of the South West Coastal Way! ... What a zinch is what I thought before we started ... until I had to eat my thoughts! Oh My! I'm sure I've never done that kind of walk before,, and am eager to do so again! In the past I've ascended an Auvergne mountain in summer, and an Arran mountain too, walked in Wales  and Derbyshire. (*Footnote) I didn't know what to expect and YET,  I can understand that planning is essential in case of inclement weather moving in from the West. Fortunately, sea fret was kindly!
Up and down heathery crags, in and out of beautiful bays, through mud, around briar and bramble to clamber rocks and stone steps, cross a wonderful stone bridge, look out to rocky island shelves in bays to hear seals moaning offshore ... THEN, just under 4 hours from Zennor, we arrived at St Ives for a nice cuppa tea!

St Ives is of course an artist's magnet and a magnet for me! I wanted to eat a Cornish Pasty BUT not to eat it on account of progress I'd made with losing weight!  However, I can recommend pub food in THE UNION INN where fresh mackerel fillets were creamy to accompany Cornish ale. We had Ginger beer alfresco in the evening sun, where there was Phil from Essex, who lived in Cornwall.  Two ladies, one American, another from London had much to say too. I always forget that al fresco these days means to sit within the range of smoker's exhalations!!!!!

I bought a painting! Small, but nevertheless it is now mine.  I was bowled over by the exhibition of the artwork from Penny Rumble and Elaine Turnbull and greedily wanted almost every one!!!!! I wish I could paint! ... AND ... for the last three years  have thought that I would love to have an art gallery in my house!!!!!!!!
You may or may not know that one source of my despair /  laughter has been that I chose to buy a house on a road to Hell or Paradise if we believe the French inversion. I laughed when I read that the painting is entitled "Cliff Edge at Hell's Mouth" by Penny Rumble! Now to buy a Marine Blue frame. Through the cellophane which of course does not do it justice, here it is:

Penny and Elaine are passionate about their work and their enthusiasm was dramatic like their art. There were so many exhibitions to taste and see in Arts Festival Week. We were lucky to choose this one! The town heaved with visitors and unfortunately we couldn't get tickets to see "Show of Hands".  I last heard them in Diss Corn Exchange probably 25 years ago! (or was it more?)

TATE and Barbara Hepworth's cottage were on the list of TO DO. I've always liked her work and that of Henry Moore. I used to study their sculptures with my class of 6 to 7 year olds who made wonderful naive representations of Mother and Child and holey forms! My former husband was very much influenced by their ideas and those of Buckminster Fuller (geodesic domes) when he presented his final show at Art College.  I still have one of his bronzes and one of his plaster eggs which need to be given higher status in my house!!!!!!!  For three years I've wanted to make my large Salle de Sejour into an art gallery.

We whiled away sunny moments marveling at fishing boats and sea. We mooched about on sands and pebbles in bays.

Before St Ives we cycled from Padstow along the estuary to Bodmin. It was 27 miles according to Google but I thought the sign said 37 miles. Anyway, I get kilometres and miles muddled! It was such a challenge and great fun to see oozing mud in the estuary.  I love the smell of estuaries. I love how tides in and out, rise and fall, changing landscape. We stopped to have coffee en route from an inventive entrepeneur. Fantastic!

Cyclists discussed the merits of other folding bicycles. I'd been rather cynical because I once rode a Shopper with difficulty and hated such hard work... but this was a DREAM!  I loved the sound of my borrowed one - a Dohan.  Swishly, smoothly, I zinged along the Camel Trail.  I was HAPPY!

At Wadebridge we stopped to see the Betjeman memorabilia exhibition, which in my opinion requires TLC and re-organisation.  It is as if the poet has become unloved within the community centre for the elderly! 
When we arrived at Bodmin we healthily ate apples, dried fruits and 70% chocolate ,but eventually we needed TEA, and so I got the much sought after Cream tea with Cornish creammmmmmmmmmm!  Then delicious ice creams on the return journey. How naughty can one get?  We didn't rate Rick Stein's fish and chips for the price! All packaging and hype! I've had the best fish and chips at Aldeburgh at half the price!       I loved being there!

TO FOLLOW  
Chapter Two of a Cornish Adventure
(*Footnote: I do remember how this same cousin, her daughter and I set off from Southwold to Dunwich across marshes in winter, when I was not better from Myalgic Encephamolitis but thought I was...we got to the pub in time for last orders in those days and a fish and chip lunch. Then they made me set off before them and still I struggled as they overtook me and yet waited all the time...it was dangerous to be walking in mist-hanging darkness near dykes.)

Wild Country requires Wild Life

                             

This is the tent I bought last year and used recently on the Ile de Ré.  It's an amazing tent, really quick to establish a snugasabug home on sandy soil.  It has an inner and outer tent. You stake out the floor plan then insert the hooped rods, stake the cords and that's it. Of course it needs a little adjustment as the sand shifts. It's lightweight and great for me!  Little old me reckoned there could be space for some Wildlife in a Wild Country tent!! Wishful thinking! My only criticism was that after a few days it seemed to develop a lot of moisture on the inside of the outer tent, even though one was in the shade of the fir trees. However, humidity levels on the island had gone from WET to steamy hot (woops ... ) even though the westerly WIND was strong.  I managed to get a wind tan whilst cycling when the sun shone HOT.  Before that a rain mac and sunglassses were necessary! The light was bright. I long to go back as I felt at home walking on the beach, tide out, tide in. Of course with family roots from Saintonge maybe that is why! Take a wallet as the eating experience is not inexpensive but amazing! Look at the paella!