Walking

My friend is in training for a GR70 walk from Puy de Velay to La Cevannes and I am supposed to be helping her; in doing so, helping myself to become fit. She is very fit!
I am very pleased that today I did not feel pain from the groin or knee, and left foot toes only tweaked 'eek' a little.  It was warm in the afternoon.  She in shorts, me in leggings. She with a hat, me without.

We walked about 15 km in 3 hours with 181 different levels (?) according to the app which we've called NORA as we have to ignore her.  We did 20,000 + steps (double recommended for the day).  So.... apx 5km per hour; not bad, as opposed to 4.5km we did last week and 3.50 to 3.75 km I did with another friend.
This was my best yet and with the inclines. Not bad for someone whose M.E. prevented her from walking indoors with, in the last 20 years, diminishing relapses.    I can't improve on this not for a long while. She however on her own did in the last week a walk of  6.5km per hour for an hour!

On the walk we didn't hear a cuckoo despite being on agri-land and woodland. Neither did we see birds or animals at all!
However, she took me across a dry bocage of land where wild  fritilllarie de pintade (Snakehead fritillary) were in bloom including one or two white ones.
Not yet home, we crossed the roundabout at La Roche Posay, enabling a close-up photo of the model horse.  La Roche Posay has a well renowned race course.

Shepherd or Vineyard Worker Huts - Posting Two

Sunday 9th August 2015
A gentle morning.  Logs had fallen from the stored stack so were pushed back.  Lunch was leftovers.
Out came bicycles. We returned to follow tracks we made yesterday to Remerle, intending to continue to St Pierre de Maille. The tracks on the map led through woodland but in reality we could not get through.  We returned by the way we came and spotted another of the ancient cabanes or loges or bories.    It had been beautifully built and sadly was now quite tumbledown.  Continuing our route we found another. We parked our bikes before walking across the field. This is one of the best condition huts I have seen. Wonderful! Onwards again to walk across another field to what we thought was another such construction but we only found thick walls, piles of stones and dead branches.  All that excitement as well as finding a small private vineyard  was fascinating but 'twas tiring for my arms and wrists to ride on bumpy tracks.  We met the tarmac to cycle to Remerle, took the lane to the Confluence.  I had to stop and remark about the difference between the summer lane of yesterday and the one strewn with autumn leaves today.  It rained last night and does feel decidedly Autumnal!
Altogether we did 14km of cycling. We were out four hours because of exploration of ancient and natural formations. We like doing that.  He wanted to find a shop but I said it would be closed which it was. However, a bar was open so we decided to opt for a hot chocolate.  There we met two people we knew who bought us beer and so we chatted and had another.  Then a third was offered by another man but we declined.  I had to walk up that incline out of that town and when I got to the ruined chateau of my village, again I walked another incline.  Pushing the bike up the steep hill opposite the Chapelle is I think harder than cycling the road loop and I was pooped!
Home!  My leg is bruised and injured badly because I fell whilst stationary astride the bike.  Whilst looking at the map,  the legs wobbled in an M.E. way, the handlebars twisted and suddenly I was grasping my calf to staunch the pain and blood.  The pedal stabbed me!
Evening meal for me was an egg scrambled with mushrooms adorned with lettuce, one oat biscuit and a bit of cheese and Rooibus tea! YUM!
PHOTOS:
The first loges found next to the track.  Note the perfection of the rounded inner wall.

The second loges was reached by walking across a field. The modern tuffeau slabs once held a door.

 ...the view from its doorway...

 Inside, the earth floor is dry but stone walls have let in rain...

 We spotted the back of the domed shelter from far away!

Later we discovered another cross.  Passing locals knew nothing about the inscription: 1865 BAUDRONNE FRERES ... ???? Arunguiers ..... or something like that ... it was situated in private fenced land.

THIS IS A REALLY GOOD LOCAL SITE for maps for walkers, cyclists etc for routes and shows the one we did...found after the event!  You can also get the leaflets from Tourist Offices.. we used to! Go explore!

So Proud

This evening after a day of cleaning, clearing, walking around house and garden, putting stuff into its rightful place, I just walked at apx 4 km per hour or maybe slightly less... the fastest for this route along 'the vineyards of Remerle", down the ravine of "The American Way" along the water's edge, up the stony cobbled way of La Cueille, where once rain was allowed to cascade down the hill for women to wash the linen-o, to home without stopping for anything, nor passing a soul!  It was 45 minutes door to door! Quickly recuperating an easy breathing rate but sweating on account of so many wintry layers, the glass of red and a bath was heaven!
So proud knowing that I am not fit.
BUT WHAT I DO KNOW is that at 1. 50e per day for supplements I am beginning to be back in touch with that former dynamic self. Watch this space.

Walking on a wild side of France 1

A Tale of Yesterday
We were blessed with weather that was not wet, windy, hot, cold, blue-skied or cloudy, though a few mackerel clouds started to form as sunset approached. We were energised as we came to the end of our journey!  It was a marvellous fast walk for about two hours through Autumn leaves and muddy puddles to skirt around, along a route, part of which I experienced about 6 years ago with a French walking group, and part of which was new to me.
I love circular walks from my house down into the valley, along by the river, up beside the cliffs, out on the plain, but a few days ago I considered exploring the region further, which would mean driving the car to a starting point where a circular walk could be created!
Today, on the way, we met a man who had parked his car in an unlikely place on a track parallel to the rushing river.  He'd given up trying to drive his old French car up a leafy, slippery-wet slope and had parked to get out of his vehicle.  I had been worriedly concerned that he was about to lose control of his car and slide into us. We were walking downhill on rocks and slippery moss, therefore keen to reach a safe vantage, concerned to be out of his way!  It was comforting to be with a friend as we were just emerging out of a leafy tunnel of trees where we hadn't seen a soul for some time. It is unusual to meet anyone on a walk in the wilderness of France but I have noticed that when in woodland unwanted thoughts creep into the mind!
In the same sentence, acknowledging "Bonjour", he said it was beautiful weather and asked if were we afraid, to which I replied "NON" and as he started to walk uphill I asked "Pourquoi?" Ah he voiced, hadn't I read or seen information telling me that there might be aggressive persons about!  Spooky! Confidently, I affirmed that we were ok and changed the subject to enquire if it was his intention to drive uphill, but I couldn't understand what he said in his Gallic language!
"Bon Journée, Au revoir."
We set off in opposite directions and came alongside an escalade; a rock climbing exercise site! This part I remember from the previous time I had walked this way!
Out into open fields, following the river bank on a long straight track waymarked white bar over a red bar was a person approaching walking alongside his horse!
"Had we seen a boxer dog?"
"NON".
Later, when we came to a junction we looked back and saw him riding the horse in the distance. We wondered how he would find his dog in such a remote area! We wandered around the bend confident that the track was not ours.
"What's that?"
Fortunately we were away from danger as whilst standing on a side track, locating our position on the map, we heard a rushing of hooves. The horse without a rider galloped around the corner and into the wooded area.  That was a close shave.  Mad horse!  Had he thrown his rider?  With no sign of a human being we continued to the wooded area, whereupon after several minutes a man is heard running behind us and out of breath.  He tells us that the horse bolted, afraid of the beefy red Limousin which were also processing up the hill on the other side of the field. We followed in the wake of the unseated rider, in the path of the galloping horse to turn right onto a muddy, puddled, leaf-strewn chemin through woodland, with a signed refuge for pheasants.  Here, my observant friend took note that the horse had come this way as there were recent horseshoe shapes slewed on the grassy track, and later, fresh horse poo! We wondered if the rider ever found his horse and dog!!  What a day for HIM... and US!
Tracking the map, she was intelligent enough to realise that where I thought we were, was not correct!  Lazily, I hadn't extricated reading glasses from my bag!  This made quite a difference to  directions!  River, woodland, power wires, randonnée signs indicated our map location.  If that is the lilac route then this must be the pale yellow route and so it was that we emerged by the car having walked in an elliptical route.
Home to delicious scones baked earlier that day, served with home-made mirabelle jelly, crème fraîche instead of butter and refreshingly hot 'Earl's Passion' tea in white porcelain cups.  How civilised as we discussed many things, even remembering the life and death of her mother and the life and death of my uncle.  Today is Remembrance Sunday.

On the route de Compostela

Streets in this region of Chatellerault have recently been upgraded and this one pedestrianised.

Chatellerault is on the pilgrimage route of St. Jacques de Compostela. Construction of the Saint Jacques Church began in 1008 on the ruins of the chapel of the priory of Saint-Jacques. The Bishop of Poitiers, Isembert II consecrated the church in 1066.  In 1632, a votive offering celebrated the end of the plague in the town.  The church was restored in 1858 and has a 17th century polychromic, wooden statue of St. Jacques. It has a carillon of 50 bells - the only carillon in the Poitou-Charentes region. 
The restoration of the church was not to the liking of one of the inspectors of historic monuments who refused to give the church any government subsidy because it replicated the facade of the Cathedral of Notre-Dame in Poitiers.  His power of generosity did not extend to the understanding that sometimes imitation can be the sincerest form of flattery!  "Thou shalt not steal" he quoted from the Bible.  Nor did he survive to hear Steve Jobs say in 1996 that "Good artists copy, Great Artists steal!"

Wikipedia Photo of Notre Dame Cathedral, Poitiers

Chapter Two of A Cornish Adventure

We took a train to Penzance and warmed ourselves with an amazing hot chocolate. I do wish I'd chosen a Danish pastry!

Onwards!   Our cycles skirted the Pz fishing depots as we headed towards Mousehole.  (The only family holiday I ever remember brought us here and it doesn't appear to have changed!)  A three-roomed shop with apartment for sale was 550k.  I asked the price!  A little shop like that would do me to a tee!

We stopped at Newlyn Art Gallery with colourful, contemporary art that made us talk about what we saw!  I loved that!  Overjoyed, I delighted in "fuschias flowering in the hedges, falling to the floor", as worthy as any art.

Driving east, we stopped at Dartington but it was raining. I didn't have my camera under the umbrella. We came to Totnes, Devon whereupon a bus and a river ferry transported us to Dartmouth. 
Here we debarked, only to hear my name being called!  Who?!! Someone from the commune I used to live in!! I used to work with her as a volunteer with children's activities and adult TEFL!  Four years ago I nearly bought part of her property! Small world! She was so friendly, absolutely charming as French Parisians are, and as surprised as I was! Spooked! I needed a strong coffee and glass of wine or brandy but not hot the chocolate substitute which was pathetic!

I loved the colours and styles of houses, the interesting boutique/antique shops, the defence constructions and the chateau at the mouth of the River Dart, the working boats, the general ambiance including tropical plants, the stately demeanour of the buildings steeped in a richly important heritage of nautical history, sailing, warfare, where 'The Mayflower' once moored when The Pilgrim Fathers sailed from Southampton to America.  There was never enough time to explore further as our bus for the return journey was waiting.  Steam train and return river ferry timetables did not coincide with our needs.  Fish and chips were delicious, eaten whilst seagulls glared at us !

Totnes was quirky! Now we travelled north-east to Burnham-on-Sea, Somerset, to settle in the sunshine and walk along the sands before the overnight stopover for a very early flight to France.

Three counties in ten days.
It was an invitation, an opportunity, an educational experience for inspiration.
It was fun and an adventure.
It was enjoyment and laughter.
It was for that moment in time with a valued friend.
It strengthened the knowledge that I can't yet afford to live near the coast unless someone lets me have a small artist's studio and then I think I would! But then I really would have to learn to paint!
Au revoir Cornwall!

Chapter One of A Cornish Adventure

Cornwall beckoned and it was surprisingly warm. I LOVED IT!!!
Once the canopy of cloud was higher than the plane I was amazed to see how emerald green were verdant fields of The West Country and in a different geographical formation than The Fair Fields of France. Travelling to Taunton took no time where we met my cousin. Like me she has the zany gene. We laughed hysterically as she drove to three watering holes determined to have a coffee treat away from home but no pubs were open before noon.  Success at midday! Didn't they know people were queuing to get in! Back to base for a ginger, lemon and echinacea concoction for an invalid before having lunch and an evening meal at a pub quiz night. Sadly, we didn't have quiz knowledge!

Westwards! We walked a 6 and a half mile section of the South West Coastal Way! ... What a zinch is what I thought before we started ... until I had to eat my thoughts! Oh My! I'm sure I've never done that kind of walk before,, and am eager to do so again! In the past I've ascended an Auvergne mountain in summer, and an Arran mountain too, walked in Wales  and Derbyshire. (*Footnote) I didn't know what to expect and YET,  I can understand that planning is essential in case of inclement weather moving in from the West. Fortunately, sea fret was kindly!
Up and down heathery crags, in and out of beautiful bays, through mud, around briar and bramble to clamber rocks and stone steps, cross a wonderful stone bridge, look out to rocky island shelves in bays to hear seals moaning offshore ... THEN, just under 4 hours from Zennor, we arrived at St Ives for a nice cuppa tea!

St Ives is of course an artist's magnet and a magnet for me! I wanted to eat a Cornish Pasty BUT not to eat it on account of progress I'd made with losing weight!  However, I can recommend pub food in THE UNION INN where fresh mackerel fillets were creamy to accompany Cornish ale. We had Ginger beer alfresco in the evening sun, where there was Phil from Essex, who lived in Cornwall.  Two ladies, one American, another from London had much to say too. I always forget that al fresco these days means to sit within the range of smoker's exhalations!!!!!

I bought a painting! Small, but nevertheless it is now mine.  I was bowled over by the exhibition of the artwork from Penny Rumble and Elaine Turnbull and greedily wanted almost every one!!!!! I wish I could paint! ... AND ... for the last three years  have thought that I would love to have an art gallery in my house!!!!!!!!
You may or may not know that one source of my despair /  laughter has been that I chose to buy a house on a road to Hell or Paradise if we believe the French inversion. I laughed when I read that the painting is entitled "Cliff Edge at Hell's Mouth" by Penny Rumble! Now to buy a Marine Blue frame. Through the cellophane which of course does not do it justice, here it is:

Penny and Elaine are passionate about their work and their enthusiasm was dramatic like their art. There were so many exhibitions to taste and see in Arts Festival Week. We were lucky to choose this one! The town heaved with visitors and unfortunately we couldn't get tickets to see "Show of Hands".  I last heard them in Diss Corn Exchange probably 25 years ago! (or was it more?)

TATE and Barbara Hepworth's cottage were on the list of TO DO. I've always liked her work and that of Henry Moore. I used to study their sculptures with my class of 6 to 7 year olds who made wonderful naive representations of Mother and Child and holey forms! My former husband was very much influenced by their ideas and those of Buckminster Fuller (geodesic domes) when he presented his final show at Art College.  I still have one of his bronzes and one of his plaster eggs which need to be given higher status in my house!!!!!!!  For three years I've wanted to make my large Salle de Sejour into an art gallery.

We whiled away sunny moments marveling at fishing boats and sea. We mooched about on sands and pebbles in bays.

Before St Ives we cycled from Padstow along the estuary to Bodmin. It was 27 miles according to Google but I thought the sign said 37 miles. Anyway, I get kilometres and miles muddled! It was such a challenge and great fun to see oozing mud in the estuary.  I love the smell of estuaries. I love how tides in and out, rise and fall, changing landscape. We stopped to have coffee en route from an inventive entrepeneur. Fantastic!

Cyclists discussed the merits of other folding bicycles. I'd been rather cynical because I once rode a Shopper with difficulty and hated such hard work... but this was a DREAM!  I loved the sound of my borrowed one - a Dohan.  Swishly, smoothly, I zinged along the Camel Trail.  I was HAPPY!

At Wadebridge we stopped to see the Betjeman memorabilia exhibition, which in my opinion requires TLC and re-organisation.  It is as if the poet has become unloved within the community centre for the elderly! 
When we arrived at Bodmin we healthily ate apples, dried fruits and 70% chocolate ,but eventually we needed TEA, and so I got the much sought after Cream tea with Cornish creammmmmmmmmmm!  Then delicious ice creams on the return journey. How naughty can one get?  We didn't rate Rick Stein's fish and chips for the price! All packaging and hype! I've had the best fish and chips at Aldeburgh at half the price!       I loved being there!

TO FOLLOW  
Chapter Two of a Cornish Adventure
(*Footnote: I do remember how this same cousin, her daughter and I set off from Southwold to Dunwich across marshes in winter, when I was not better from Myalgic Encephamolitis but thought I was...we got to the pub in time for last orders in those days and a fish and chip lunch. Then they made me set off before them and still I struggled as they overtook me and yet waited all the time...it was dangerous to be walking in mist-hanging darkness near dykes.)