Roman Church 10th Century

Mooching around the back of buildings between the river, the market and the new tourist office area,  I discovered the oldest church in Chatellerault, which I never knew existed. 
I have been visiting this town for 9 years!  How dumb could I be!
The streets and buildings around it have recently received renovation. so maybe as other buildings around it have been destroyed as part of 'new development' perhaps it was that 'we couldn't see the wood for the trees'.

It was the first church founded by the Viscount of Chatellerault in 10th century. It was one of five parish churches of the former establishment. After the Siege of Poitiers in July 1569 when the Huguenots rioted, it was restored. After The Revolution it was converted into habitation. Today the secondary chapels and columns are conserved. It is a National Monument of France.

Extraordinary!

L'Ancien Theatre in Chatellerault: 6

The Peristyle is used as a foyer.

1967 the theatre was deemed to be outside of the cultural life of Chatellerault and any project to renew it was too onerous. 
1973 there was an order for it to be closed because of the danger of fire.
1977 The Maire confirmed it was going to be destroyed. An association to save it was led by Michel Bidron. it has been a long process but I am so very glad the theatre has been conserved and is classed as a Historic Monument de France. Thank you to all those who had faith!
And now....please go to the theatre as part of the audience or have a guided tour.  Treat yourself!
There is a depth to this theatre that I have not been able to relate or reproduce in these postings nor yet uncovered. Over to you!

PS If I am able to read / translate / discover more important facts I will update my blog with new postings! 

L'Ancien Theatre in Chatellerault: 5

These photos are of a maquette on display.

And some other lovely decorative features:

L'Ancien Theatre in Chatellerault: 4

The sets, curtain and allegorical ceiling paintings are the artistry of Emile Vernon, from the École des Beaux-Arts, Tours, France. This is a reproduction of the main curtain which has two oculi to espy if the audience are ready for the show!  It depicts the Henri IV bridge over La Vienne river between Chatellerault and Chateauneuf.  I wonder if all the original has been kept and if so, where? I hope examples of the other artefacts are in storage somewhere.

 This blog shows his paintings in their original state - untouched! Thank you to the blogger!

SPRINGTIME COMETH
Evidently the cranes went over yesterday but I didn't see them! 

L'Ancien Theatre in Chatellerault: 3

I am very fond of this theatre and have been a member of "Les Amis" for several years, offering my humble support for the rescue of this unique building.  It was dilapidated and at its worst when a friend and I had a guided tour. Earlier this week I was rapturous and so happy to see it looking exquisitely beautiful when I attended the AGM.

I don't think my level of French would withstand a performance but maybe if I can find an event that hasn't yet sold out I would love to dress in my finery and be chaperoned as part of the audience, as part of the theatre that the actors may or may not see when all the lights are shining upon THEM.  I would be in the dark in more ways than one!   I would be with the Godesses of Thalia and Mesopmene in Paradise!

You could read: 
http://www.ville-chatellerault.fr/grands-projets/ancien-theatre

L'Ancien Theatre in Chatellerault: 2

 These are images from the electronic presentation available to view in the 'peristyle' / foyer.

1495 Les Minimes positioned outside of the walled moated town of Chatellerault.

The Moat has long since been filled, but how or why or when I do not know!  In this 1495 engraving one can see the churches of St Jacques, the 10th century Roman church and St Jean the Evangelist. I find it Fascinating, the more I look. And when was the wall taken down?

The cheapest seats in the Gods are called Paradise.

The chapel window still exists but is bricked up.

Des baies géminées  can be seen here.

By now those who buy the cheapest seats go to the chicken run! 

Le gril is machinery which controls the raising and lowering of the sets 'de scene'.  I think it is fantastic that these were preserved and now restored.

2014

If you wish to hear in French then go to here

L'Ancien Theatre in Chatellerault: 1

  In future it will be called Theatre Blossac.
L'Ancien refers to the 'former' not 'ancient' theatre.
Now, re-instated it is situated on the Boulevard Blossac.

HOWEVER, it has been restored exquisitely, ambitiously and impeccably. 

It is a working theatre in the Italianate Style.
I recommend everyone to have a guided tour. 

HISTORY:
1495: A theatre was built in the chapel of the Convent of Minimes.
1791: It was purchased by the town council.
1804:  A wooden tower was destroyed.  I don't know which tower is referred to. The wood was recycled to build a simple amphitheatre with apx 400 seats to host meetings and Republican ceremonies.  It was organised by a charitable company whose aims were to "bring relief to poverty, promote the arts and provide residents with pleasant relaxation which would improve their morals." 
(Maybe the translation means morale!) 
1814: It was decided that a new theatre was required for the town.
1839 to 1844: A small neo-classical Italian theatre was built by Michel Delage, who was a mason in Châtellerault, according to designs by Louis Renaudet.
1860: It became a Municipal Theatre. I think it was called La Redoute because until recently that was the name of the hall in front of the concealed theatre and the hall upstairs.  "The cultural space now includes a theatre (in the nave of the old church), a peristyle attached to the front of the church and, upstairs, a fireplace and the room dedicated to La Redoute meetings concerts and balls." 
1899: The theatre was extended to seat apx 600 in the audience. The simple brown, blue and yellow decor was transformed with rich paintings, sculptures and embellishments of red and gold.  The sets, the curtain and the allegorical ceiling paintings and murals are the work of Emile Vernon, of the Ecole des Beaux-Arts de Tours.  
Émile Vernon, was born in 1872 and died in 1919. He was a student at the School of Fine Arts in Tours, France and received the premier prize for drawing in 1888.  He was taught and influenced by William Bouguereau and Auguste Truphème at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris.   In 1898, he participated in the Exhibition of Fine Arts and Decorative Arts in Tours.  He exhibited regularly until 1913, with portraits, landscapes and floral paintings.  He excelled in watercolour paintings of women and children in bright colours and bucolic scenery, and was well known for the portrait of Mrs.Vernon, Under the Lamp.
1945 to 1958:  although there were performances the building began to degrade becoming dangerous.
2012: Restoration began to replicate the Italianate theatre of 1899.  The foundations, roof, walls, stairway, plumbing, electricity, et cetera have all been updated according to current building regulations. Paintings and decorations have been restored: curtains, dressing rooms, benches, seats and theatre boxes, chairs in the balconies, the proscenium, cornices, friezes and IN FACT everything has all been replaced and or restored.  The machinery which operates the theatrical screens and sets has also been upgraded.In addition, a lift has been installed.  
Two stone muses, Thalia and Melopmene were returned to the facade of the theatre.
In Grecian Mythology the Muses were the inspirational goddesses of knowledge, of the arts, of music, song and dance and all were the source of inspiration to poets in the court of Zeus.  In very ancient times there were three Muses, but later there were nine.  
Each inspirational Muse received a name and spheres of responsibility or attributes:-

Calliope (epic poetry) 
Clio (history)
Erato (love and erotic poetry)
Euterpe (lyric poetry)
Melopmene (tragedy)
Thalia (comedy)
Polyhymnia (religious hymns)
Terpsichore (choral song and dance)
Urania (astronomy)

2013: The theatre was re-opened.  It has cost 5.85 million euros to restore.  The Heritage Foundation supported the restoration of the theatre. The work was overseen by Millet Key, an International firm associated with Arnaud de Saint-Jouan, Chief Architect of Historic Monuments. 25 companies were involved.

See next posting for more photographs.

Book Review: Coastliners

I read this 12 years ago when it was first published ... the copy is in my attic.
Q: Why not on a bookshelf?  A: I don't have one as my previous house had an inbuilt library!
A friend bought this copy from a UK charity shop!  Unfortunately, it was a slow and tedious read both readings, however, this time, I would wake in the middle of the night to read a few more chapters and came to enjoy the book.
Today is Saturday but I post this to my blog on Sunday yet moved the posting to Thursday!
I don't know why I am so exhausted.  I was reading before and after sleeping under the duvet, on the settee, in front of the fire. Unusual for me! I think it was a combination of Friday, a headache, THE RAIN, the desire for change and for the pile of chores to disappear!
There are more than enough reviews and it best to go to Joanne Harris' website for all you wish to know.  It's about insiders/outsiders and pessimism/optimism. The frailty of human life which is dependent upon age, employment, lifestyle.  It is about birth/death and how LIFE struggles on, despite all that occurs...well, until we die!  The thread in the story is the belief that if something departs or is lost it will return.  It's a bit of a cliffhanger ... suddenly the tale ends and one wonders.
I have read the 2nd,3rd,4th 5th of her published books. I think I stopped buying when I realised there was a pattern.  I own THE FRENCH KITCHEN which I rather like!
I miss the sea...but probably would not wish to be near the angry 'hungry dog' on the west and south of the British Isles.

On the route de Compostela

Streets in this region of Chatellerault have recently been upgraded and this one pedestrianised.

Chatellerault is on the pilgrimage route of St. Jacques de Compostela. Construction of the Saint Jacques Church began in 1008 on the ruins of the chapel of the priory of Saint-Jacques. The Bishop of Poitiers, Isembert II consecrated the church in 1066.  In 1632, a votive offering celebrated the end of the plague in the town.  The church was restored in 1858 and has a 17th century polychromic, wooden statue of St. Jacques. It has a carillon of 50 bells - the only carillon in the Poitou-Charentes region. 
The restoration of the church was not to the liking of one of the inspectors of historic monuments who refused to give the church any government subsidy because it replicated the facade of the Cathedral of Notre-Dame in Poitiers.  His power of generosity did not extend to the understanding that sometimes imitation can be the sincerest form of flattery!  "Thou shalt not steal" he quoted from the Bible.  Nor did he survive to hear Steve Jobs say in 1996 that "Good artists copy, Great Artists steal!"

Wikipedia Photo of Notre Dame Cathedral, Poitiers

Jeanne d'Arc rode here

 

The hanging ball of the Plane tree (Platane) is an achene (akairn). This fruit, a seed-box, gradually breaks open in winter to release stiff hairs which carry tiny seeds on the wind. (wind dispersal)

Beneath three plane trees which were in front of the former hospital, now the site of the Tourist Office, the Loft theatre, a new school and architectural museum, lies an almost inconsequential dwarfed monument that is in need of restoration. It was made with 'tuffeau' stone of the region, which is easily eroded by weather. I am witness that it has seriously eroded in the last 9 years.  Increased traffic pollution?  The engraved commemoration is becoming illegible and perhaps in 15 years will be replaced.
"Ici s'élevait la porte Ste Catherine par laquelle est passée Jeanne d'Arc en Mars 1429 se rendant de Chinon à Poitiers.  Cette borne a été inaugurée le 17 Mars 1929 à l'occasion du cinquième centenaire du passage à Chatellerault de l’héroïque Bergerette."
I can't translate it exactly. Joan of Arc in March 1429 travelled through Chatellerault from Chinon to Poitiers. Saint Catherine was one of the saints who Joan said advised her. The city gates have long since disappeared. The monument was inaugurated 17 March 1929 on the fifth centenary of the journey of the heroic Bergerette (young shepherdess).

Poetic thinking about absent adult children in Spring

Sunday morning sun is shining glistening dew on grass.

Crisp it feels, but not too cold under the blue-bright clear sky.
Wearing a coat I sit... on a fuschia pink chair... drinking tea... eating toast with marmalade.

I watch a mostly black bumble bee arrive on the stone wall to sun himself.
I feel the need to sun myself.

There is a yearning to be outside...
to titivate the garden... to walk... to cycle... but inside there are chores.

There is a yearning to have company...

to share ideas about the making of a home with a garden of thoughts.
There is a yearning to share Time...
as it passes in the thoughts of a garden where Life shortens day by day.

Morning sun is shining... but glistening dew-like droplets
are swept warmly away from my face with laughter
as bright sunlight spears my eyes and dries the joyful tears

to move morning thoughts optimistically forwards.

Like The Spring as it moves forwards from The Winter.

We grow like daffodils pushing through verdant grass to raise their sunny lemon heads.

We grow to enjoy LIFE without the presence of all those whom we love -
children, family, friends.
Yet here in my garden in France, and in my garden of love,
absent like the daffodils in their beds
they are waiting to show up!
I am waiting for the next step.

Shake up. Shape up.
Be like the busy black bumble bee. 
Look for the warmth before we rust away.
It's SPRING!

Monday update: 
Another very warm day... that did not turn cold until 17h. The sky stayed clear all day with WARM sunshine whereas yesterday there were afternoon showers. There is a brilliant setting sun. I see red streaks in the sky at 18h.
On Sunday morning I was so overjoyed with the signs of Spring that I started to think that France on a glorious warm February morning is such a golden treasure. 
Yesterday, I was thinking about my grown up children and thinking that because of the choices I made about life they cannot be here to enjoy what I enjoy! Neither can I be with them to enjoy what they enjoy!!!! I keep tweaking the words... a wordsmith takes time to be happy with expression of a deeper depth of feeling. This 'poem' has been an attempt  to say how much I love them... as much as morning sunshine... as much as dancing daffodils... and more!!!!!!

A pond without goldfish

Last week the windscreen of my car was niftily replaced in order to pass 'le contrôle technique'.  Before the repair and / or after, I can't remember which, I noted that there was a lot of moisture on the inside of the windscreen, but took no notice, merely wiped it dry.  On Wednesday there was water in the bottom of the car, some of which I baled out using an old tea-towel as a sponge. Had I left the door ajar? If so, it didn't make sense because none of the upholstery or plastic was wet! On Thursday, there were 4 larger ponds ... two in the front and two 'à l'arrière!'  Hmph! I booked a rendezvous with the garage for the next day.  Another 45+ minute trip to town! There were three of those last week! Now the petrol budget has exceeded itself!  Miraculously, my hairdresser had an appointment available in the afternoon, so all was not completely lost and everything gained!
It appears that water falling between the windscreen and the bonnet has channels which discharge rainwater behind the front wheels.  Now, I never knew that! Well, these were evidently blocked with dust, leaves and debris. They are not checked for the French MOT and maybe not the English one!  As a result of ignorance, incompetence and I don't know what, the carpets are saturated. My Renault garage discovered the problem, used their vacuum cleaner to suck up as much water as they could and told me to do the same each day or use a sponge!  I sponged twice today and had the heater on full pelt whilst travelling to the Preuilly-sur-Claise Saffron Fair - a product specific market of the Crocus Sativus - a kind of Farmer's market ... which also included the sale of salt, plants and bulbs, cake, cheese, meats, crafts such as pottery, wood, jewellery, etc. There was a restaurant but only open at midday!
As soon as RAIN stops during the day, I'll open doors and windows. I might be able to put the humidifier inside the car!   I hope it isn't any other problem.
Meanwhile SPONGE in hand, my heart goes out to all those with flooded homes.
An absolute nightmare for them!!!!!!!   The fields across country are saturated; crops/seeds will rot.  Fallen trees have been cleared from roads and lie in the swollen ditches.

Entymology

After the renewal of the mansard roof I've had to find out the names of carpentry joists in order to describe a problem with water when there shouldn't be any on the inside.   There are legs (jambes de force ou chevrons) which support 'la panne sablière', junction of 'le brisi' and 'la terrasson'.  In English they are called 'ashlaring'.  What a wonderful sound!

Ashlaring is a collective noun given to ashlars, which are short upright timbers that are fixed from the joists to the rafters to form the walls of a garret/attic/grenier. They cut off the acute angle between the roof and the floor.
Ashlaring is also a term in masonry when squared stone, cut roughly true on all faces is positioned next to others so as to provide very thin mortar joints.  It is also a collection of such stones.

It can also be used as a verb to ashler / to ashlar meaning to face with ashlars!

The word originated in the early 18th century from 14th century Middle English ascheler and  Middle French aisselier  and Latin axilläris,  the latter creating the word axis.  

Words from several years ago - adapted

Some words are like monsters leaping from a thoughtless or thoughtful chasm between people.
How can we escape from words?
Some words are like gentle angels opening their wings and wafting gently into our hearts.
How can we fly with wings?
Words try to communicate
Sometimes therein lies miscommunication, misunderstanding, hurt, struggle, sorrow.
Words try to communicate
Sometimes are as soft as rain, or hot as the sun or like the lick of an ice cream
creating joy, positive feeling, cosiness, security, safety.
How we love to be loved.
Words are only words.
Often they are insufficient to express emotion.
Love is an inner struggle.
The greatest love is unconditional.

Those were my thoughts.

A small blue notebook

The 1998 European educational exchange had ended.  I chose to stay alone in Lisbon for a few extra days.  It was an opportunity and project to share and develop pedagogical knowledge and delivery to children (i.e. teaching and learning) and to build and benefit professional and personal development. It was for adults, as well as for children, and some colleagues missed the point!

My small, blue notebook recorded a memory of overcoming internal fears into joy as a personal educational experience.  It wasn’t every day that I had the opportunity to be in Portugal with flights pre-paid. I hadn't been corrupt. The flight booked was just several days later and meanwhile I paid for my accommodation, travel and food.  Travelling really does broaden the mind. It was a lesson in how to be better organised - an ongoing challenge of my life! It was a lesson in overcoming fears. I needed to keep calm and not think the worst.  Rising panic attacks wanted to destroy the sense of adventure. Being unable to understand Portuguese and frustrated to be understood created desperation in the first 48 hours!  It was a lesson in how to learn to be positive.  It became a lesson of appreciation of how lucky I was.  Then,  there was a friend who loved me.  We spoke on the 'phone. He guided me on how to approach living in a place where language was a barrier.  In my small blue notebook I wrote that I was respectful of his patience, kindness and care.  I tried to be more open towards the general friendliness of unspeaking travellers.

On the train out of Lisboa, I congratulated myself for purchasing a train ticket. I had used gestures and written the destination on paper. I gave a large note and accepted whatever the change was. It was escudos.  That morning at breakfast a television advertisement re-enforced my friend’s verbal support. This made me more confident, encouraged and hopeful that I could master solo travel.

The message was that: “The world is full of opportunity and risk. If you can take away the risk you can do anything!”  It was also “Carpe Diem - Seize the day for tomorrow may never come.”

After the hubbub of Lisbon, the landscape transformed as we exited a dark tunnel. Here was Sintra with its beautiful Palace. Once there were two different castles. There was the now ruined Islamic Castle of the Moors overlooking the village.  In the lower castle, dating from 10^th century, where Moorish regional rulers once lived, there is a mixture of Gothic, Renaissance and Moorish styles.

There was the most wonderful wood-panelled flooring with furniture made from many woods: walnut, rosewood, ebony, oak, chestnut.  In a 15th/16^th chapel repeated patterns of doves holding an olive branch were painted on the walls.  In one room 104 magpies were painted on the ceiling holding 'HONOUR' in their beaks. 

In another room 27 swans were painted on the ceiling. Windows and doors were surrounded by green and white rhombus shaped tiles. Above each were different mosaic patterned castles. I noticed tureens from 17^th/18^th centuries depicting boar, cows, swans, and chickens!

I ate bacalhau – dried and salted codfish with creamy mashed potatoes topped with grilled parmesan, served with a mixed salad and more than one glass of red wine before I climbed to the upper castle in hot sunshine!  I felt contented and wished my friend was with me.  Back in Lisbao, I discovered an indulgement of Portuguese custard tarts. Sitting outside the castle I could hear a noisy city.  Trams clank, aeroplanes roar to soar, pigeons coo, birds in cages sing, others cheep in freedom, builders hammer tools, people chatter, cars rush, ships hoot, horns honk, sirens wail and people played guitars as I looked at the sculptural art in the courtyard.  I loved the monastery, the castle, the wide promenades, the ocean, the ambience, the architecture and particularly the Purple Jacaranda trees, beneath which, I heard the music of Madredeus.  

 `````````

Weather Days:
Monday was hot, hot, hot for February.  My carpenter and I sat in the garden for morning coffee, lunch and afternoon tea!  I think it was a Yellow Brimstone that fluttered by and I think a Red Admiral.  In mid January I had to help a Red Admiral wake up when it was about to get damaged in the log shed!  But I heard on the radio this Wednesday morning that butterflies in England have woken up from their Winter Pause too early and there isn't enough nectar to supply them with energy.
Tuesday was more overcast with some sun breaking through in the afternoon.

One of my most favourite of songs

by some of the most beautiful of people

and one of the greatest of bands - Free Bird -  Lynrd Skynrd - a terrible loss of brilliant musicians.

If I leave here tomorrow
Would you still remember me?
For I must be traveling on, now,
'Cause there's too many places I've got to see.
But, if I stayed here with you, girl,
Things just couldn't be the same.
'Cause I'm as free as a bird now,
And this bird you can not change.
Oh... oh... oh... oh... oh...
And the bird you cannot change.
And this bird you cannot change.
Lord knows I can't change.

Bye, bye, baby it's been a sweet love.
Yeah, yeah, Though this feeling I can't change.
But please don't take it so badly,
'Cause the lord knows I'm to blame.
But, if I stayed here with you girl,
Things just couldn't be the same.
Cause I'm as free as a bird now,
And this bird you can not change.
Oh... oh... oh... oh... oh...
And this bird you cannot change.
And this bird you cannot change.
Lord knows, I can't change.
Lord help me, I can't change.
Lord I can't change,
Won't you fly high free bird...yeah.