Sunday, 21 September 2014

From Ré to Oléron

It is about 90 miles from Central Ile de Ré to the furthest parts of the Ile d'Oléron; almost a full circle!  I was surprised at the distance and shall not be island hopping the two again!  Others expressed surprise as they too drove or cycled through the spinal towns of Ile d'Oléron.  When would commerce cease? It was great to reach the 'almost wilderness' around La Brée-les-Bains and the Atlantic Ocean.
One cycle day was to St Denis, onwards to the lighthouse where amazing écluses hug the tip of the isle, along the south coast through wooded areas and across a lagooned region to St Georges and back to camp! Meandering, exploring, gently cycling.
Another day was down the northern coast to Boyardville, returning along the same but slightly different route to St Georges and back to camp. This required more energy and concentration on the roadway as cycle paths were bumpy and slowed speed.
A third day to St Denis to the market, to sit and harbour gaze, to write, to ponder, to observe, to enjoy.
A fourth day driving to St Denis market and stocking up on fresh fish at good prices, then to motor down through Boyardville along the northern length of the isle to the Chateau for which I needed more time.  It was fascinating. The oyster culture region reminded me of Walberswick estuary, marshes, dykes and fishing paraphernalia.  It felt kind of homely, and although I haven't scratched the surface of the isle, it's not where I wish to be. The light was overwhelming as I drove through places not yet cycled, I prefer the blissfulness of cycling on the Ile de Ré. 
St Denis d'Oleron
 Then I think it was La Baudissiere


 I had tea and lunch at the boulangerie in Le Chateau
and in intense heat wandered on the edge of the citadelle, where all but the walls and the arsenal, the armoury, was destroyed in WWII.
and whilst the sea changes hue and blue, the bridge exists toll free now to carry us across and home to mainland France, for here is a home.  A home is where the heart is...hopefully Peace and not War!
It was lovely and yes, I would hope to return for there is much more to explore!

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